Are Bespoke Suits Really "Stiff Attire"?
When you hear "bespoke suit," many people might imagine something formal, an outfit solely for work.
However, modern suit styles have changed significantly.
With fewer occasions to wear a tie and the widespread adoption of wearing jackets with knits or T-shirts, suits have become much more versatile than before.
That's why the bespoke suits we at apartir envision are not just business wear.
What we value is understanding the rules of classic tailoring while naturally incorporating the current zeitgeist.
It's not about blindly copying trends, but about translating the essence of an era into high-quality tailoring.
As buyers for a select shop, we sense market shifts, and as tailors, we have honed our skills. We'd like to discuss the contemporary bespoke suits that only we, with both perspectives, can offer.
A Buyer's Eye: What's Happening in the World of Ready-to-Wear Today
Looking back at men's fashion over the past few years, the key words are "relaxation" and "return to classic."
After the heyday of streetwear, fashion is once again turning its attention to tailoring.
However, this isn't the slim, sharp suit of yesteryear.
It's about soft, relaxed silhouettes.
A comfortable amount of ease that doesn't constrict the body.
The natural drape that forms when you walk.
Such relaxed elegance is at the heart of current trends.
Even at international exhibitions and brand collections, jackets are structured yet soft, and trousers are loose but fall beautifully.
Materials are also evolving.
Instead of uniform, sharp fabrics, expressive materials like linen, wool-linen blends, hopsack, and vintage-style weaves are gaining favor.
Not being perfectly neat.
A slightly relaxed vibe.
Yet maintaining dignity.
This is the current atmosphere known as "modern sartorial."
Sartorial refers to the philosophy of menswear based on tailoring. In other words, today's trend is a return to classicism, but evolved into a more flexible and contemporary interpretation.
A Tailor's Craft: Rules of Tailoring to Elevate Trends into "Dignity"
It's important to note that "relaxed" doesn't simply mean "making the size larger."
If the relaxed feel seen in ready-to-wear is directly applied to bespoke, it can sometimes appear sloppy.
What's essential for adult attire is a clear distinction between ease and sloppiness.
Take a jacket, for example.
Instead of making the shoulders too wide, a beautiful three-dimensional effect is created by allowing the shoulders to fit naturally while providing adequate room around the chest.
The waist is not excessively tapered, maintaining a natural shape.
This achieves both the comfort of not restricting the body and the beauty characteristic of tailored clothing.
Recently, a slightly lower gorge line has also garnered attention.
The gorge line is the point where the lapel (lower collar) and the collar (upper collar) meet.
Setting it slightly lower creates a subdued impression, enhancing the classic feel.
The same applies to lapel width.
Wider lapels, rather than extremely narrow ones, tend to blend better with the current atmosphere and balance well with a relaxed silhouette.
For trousers, in-tucks and two pleats have become standard.
Pleats are folds at the waist.
By providing room around the waist and gently tapering towards the hem, you can achieve beautiful drape and comfortable wear.
It is this accumulation of meticulous design that elevates trends from fleeting fads into adult dignity.
apartir's Proposal: Modern Bespoke Suits for Both On and Off-Duty Enjoyment
What we recommend now is a suit that is neither "work-only" nor "holiday-only."
For example,
・Lightweight tailoring with soft interlining
・Natural shoulders with minimal shoulder pads
・A slightly lower gorge line
・Wider lapels of about 9-10 cm
・Two-pleat trousers
・Textured natural fabrics
A suit tailored with these specifications can be perfectly suitable for formal occasions or business settings when paired with a tie.
On the other hand, for weekends, simply combining it with a high-quality knit or T-shirt creates a naturally sophisticated casual style for adults.
Especially, unstructured tailoring (lightweight construction with minimal interlining and padding) is highly compatible with modern styles.
It offers a light wearing comfort while retaining the three-dimensional quality unique to tailoring.
Isn't this exquisite balance the form of suit that is sought after in today's era?
Enjoying a suit not as "clothing only for special days" but as a wardrobe staple that integrates into everyday life.
That is apartir's vision of modern bespoke suits.
Fashion has trends.
However, simply chasing trends will not result in a piece that can be truly loved for a long time.
What's important is to grasp the spirit of the times and translate it into a form that suits the individual.
As a select shop, we continuously observe global fashion, and as tailors, we attend to each individual's body shape and lifestyle.
That's why we believe we can offer proposals that balance the universality of classics with contemporary sensibilities.
"I want a suit that fits me now."
When you feel that way, please visit apartir.
Let's tailor together a suit that will allow you to comfortably enjoy the coming years, not just one that follows a fleeting trend.
