We are pleased to introduce a custom-made piece for a client.
This is the Apartir bespoke jacket model, the “Cascade Jacket,” crafted from British Sovereign black herringbone fabric.
While based on our sample, we incorporated details such as wide lapels, a low gorge line, no waist darts, and single-button cuffs to achieve a well-balanced, relaxed silhouette.
Liberation from "Just the Right Size"
Finding that "just right" sense of relaxation is difficult with ready-to-wear garments. Because it is bespoke, you can pursue the ideal fit for yourself.
The inspiration for this jacket began with the question, "Can we realize that through custom tailoring?"
To challenge the sizing that traditional tailors might call "unconventional," we were meticulously focused on pattern adjustments. We paid special attention to:
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Shoulder slope
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Balance between the front and back panels
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Presence or absence of interlining
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Collar size
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Armscye depth
Through much trial and error, we created an ideal piece that combines a flowing silhouette with a lightweight feel.
The Art of Fabric Selection
The black herringbone used this time is from the prestigious British mill SOVEREIGN. The unique weave creates texture and depth not found in solid colors. While simple black, the fabric’s subtle shading stands out depending on the light, making it versatile for any occasion.
The appeal of herringbone fabric is its ability to handle everything from casual to semi-formal settings. It radiates a refined presence in both daily wear and special events.
↑ In-store sample.
The Aesthetics of Upsizing
Aiming for two or more sizes up from "just right." The commitment to sizing can be enjoyed even more freely based on the client's physique and preference.
For reference, this jacket was tailored three sizes up based on our staff's measurements. When worn as a suit, it offers a sophisticated, modern look.
With upsizing, the balance of the silhouette becomes crucial. It requires adjustments that avoid being excessively oversized while ensuring both mobility and style. By refining the shoulder slope, sleeve length, and overall length, we maintain a sense of elegance even within the relaxed fit.
Styling Suggestions
Given the wider body width, "subtraction" via the bottoms is important.
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Single-pleat wide tapered pants: Complement the relaxed feel of the jacket while maintaining a clean look.
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Chinos or cargo pants: Add a touch of casual flair.
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Setup (suit) style: Creates a modern atmosphere while highlighting the jacket's unique character.
We also recommend pairing the jacket with a simple knit or cut-and-sew top. Complete the outfit with leather shoes or loafers to pull the look together for a refined, mature casual style.
Conclusion
The Cascade Jacket is a piece designed to enjoy sizing and styles that break conventional boundaries. We highly encourage those looking to pursue an individuality not found in ready-to-wear clothing to give this custom jacket a try.
Let’s enjoy the journey of finding your ideal fit together with Apartir.
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