Just how special should a suit worn on a wedding day be?
The suit we tailored at apartir in Nayabashi, Nagoya, was born from that very question.
The setting: a Japanese-modern wedding venue filled with gold leaf folding screens, shoji paper screens, and tatami mats.
The groom chose a bespoke suit made from COVERT CLOTH by the prestigious Italian fabric manufacturer Vitale Barberis Canonico.
A semi-notch lapel with a lower gorge line.
A boat-shaped breast pocket.
Slanted pockets.
And two-pleat straight trousers with a deep rise based on Gurkha trousers.
The shirt features a cleric-style round collar with a tab.
Finished with a vintage tie.
At first glance, it is classic British tailoring.
Yet, there is a modern sense of freedom in how it is worn.
Beside him stands the bride, in a dress of delicate lace and superb coloring reminiscent of vintage gowns.
When the two outfits were brought together, a surprisingly natural harmony emerged within the Japanese-style space.
A classic bespoke suit chosen specifically for a Nagoya wedding
When people think of groom attire, many imagine bright tuxedos or slim-fitting black suits.
Those are certainly beautiful choices, too.
However, for a Japanese-modern venue like this one, it is also interesting to change your perspective.
We envisioned a "bespoke suit for weddings" that retains the dignity of formal wear while remaining wearable even after the ceremony is over.
At apartir, we do not view bespoke suits as simply matching sizes.
The fabric, lapels, pockets, trouser silhouette, shirt, and tie.
We craft a suit while considering where the person will be, who they will be with, and what kind of time they will spend there.
Once again, our first thought was not about "clothes for a wedding," but rather:
Clothes in which this person looks the most natural in this space.
We built the design from there.
CANONICO COVERT CLOTH
Supple yet substantial. A fabric you can wear long after the wedding.
We chose COVERT CLOTH from Vitale Barberis Canonico, a long-established fabric mill in Biella, Italy.
Covert is a sturdy twill fabric that has long been used in country wear and sporty tailoring.
Unlike typical formal suit fabrics, it has a moderate weight and resilience, allowing the jacket's silhouette to hold its shape beautifully when tailored.
At the same time, this particular fabric is not too stiff and possesses a supple touch.
This sensation of being "substantial yet following the body" suited this suit perfectly.
It looks formal at a wedding.
But once the ceremony is over, it can be paired with a shirt or knitwear to be worn as an everyday jacket.
That was one of the key aspects we valued in this order.
Low-gorge semi-notch lapel
Not old-fashioned, but a classic choice.
The jacket features a semi-notch lapel with a lower gorge line.
Compared to modern suits, the gorge is set slightly lower, creating a quiet presence around the chest.
The width and angle of the lapels do not demand attention unnecessarily.
They create a line that flows naturally along the body, making the face look clean and defined.
The breast pocket is a boat-shaped "barchetta" pocket.
The waist features slanted pockets.
Rather than placing them horizontally, we added a slight angle to lend a sense of lightness to the classic suit.
Formal, yet somewhat sporty.
That ambiguity is the charm of this suit.
Wedding suit trousers based on Gurkha designs
We were particularly meticulous about the trousers this time.
We based them on Gurkha trousers, known for their military and travel heritage.
We refined the details and reconstructed them so they would function as part of a bespoke suit.
A deeper rise.
Two pleats.
And a straight silhouette that falls directly to the hem.
Unlike typical slim-fit wedding suits, there is room through the waist and thighs.
This extra space makes the silhouette look beautiful when standing.
And it doesn't constrict the body when sitting.
At a wedding, there are many movements: standing, walking, sitting, and greeting guests.
That is precisely why we consider beauty and ease of movement simultaneously.
This is something only possible through a bespoke order.
Cleric shirt and tab collar
A touch of vintage at the neck.
For the shirt, we chose a cleric style.
By using different colors for the body and the collar/cuffs, it creates depth in the jacket's V-zone.
The collar is a round collar.
By adding a tab, the tie is naturally lifted, creating three-dimensionality at the neck.
We paired this with a vintage tie.
Matching a new suit with a tie that has aged over time—this slight sense of "incongruity" moves the ensemble away from a "ready-made wedding style."
There is no need to make everything about the outfit brand new.
In fact, by mixing in one older item, the person's own history becomes infused into the clothing.
That kind of style is what we believe at apartir.
A Japanese-modern wedding venue and British tailoring
What is particularly striking in the photos this time is the relationship between the suit and the background.
Gold screen.
Tatami mats.
Shoji screens.
Soft lighting.
And there, a charcoal classic suit.
At first glance, it might look like a combination of completely different cultures.
But in reality, it feels very natural.
Japanese spaces possess "yohaku" (empty space).
British tailoring, too, has a philosophy of creating beautiful empty space between the body and the garment without over-decorating.
That is exactly why a classic suit blends so smoothly into a Japanese space.
Wearing Western clothing in a Japanese setting.
What is important then is not to lean toward one or the other, but perhaps to preserve the virtues of both.
With the bride's vintage-like dress
Another element that completes this styling is the bride's dress.
Delicate lace.
Classic patterns.
An air reminiscent of a vintage gown.
It has an aura that evokes the passage of time, making it distinct from contemporary wedding dresses.
We paired this with classic tailoring and a vintage tie.
Neither is "only for now," but rather carries a beauty passed down from the past.
That is why they look so harmonious when standing together.
It is not about perfectly matching the groom's and bride's outfits, but rather:
Wearing what each likes while looking beautiful when side-by-side.
As wedding styling, I believe this is incredibly important.
Wedding Order Suit, wearable long after the ceremony
Just because it is a wedding suit doesn't mean it has to be something you only wear once.
The jacket can be worn with a shirt for work or dinner.
The trousers can be paired with a knit or cut-and-sew piece for the weekend.
The vintage tie can be saved for the next special occasion.
That is how it gradually returns to your daily life.
Every time you look at the photos from your wedding day, you'll remember the clothes you wore.
And years later, you'll wear those clothes again.
I believe that is a joy that only a bespoke suit can offer.
Clothes tailored for a milestone in life that stay with you through the life that follows.
That is the kind of Wedding Order Suit that we at apartir aim to create.
Tailoring a bespoke wedding suit in Nayabashi, Nagoya
apartir is a bespoke and select shop located in Nayabashi, Nagoya.
We are located on the 4th floor of PIVOT Nayabashi along the Horikawa River, about a 13-minute walk from Nagoya Station and a 5-minute walk from Fushimi Station and Kokusai Center Station.
We offer consultations not only for bespoke suits, but also for bespoke shirts, jackets, and tuxedos tailored to your wedding style.
Choosing the fabric.
Thinking through the design.
Taking measurements.
Putting on the finished garment.
We believe this process itself is part of the wedding preparations.
If this is your first time having a suit custom-made, please feel free to consult with us.
By listening to the atmosphere of your wedding venue, the season, your partner's dress, and your usual style,
we will work with you to conceive a wedding suit that only you can pull off.
Wedding Order Suit
CANONICO COVERT CLOTH
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Low gorge line
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Semi-notch lapel
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Boat-shaped breast pocket
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Slanted pockets
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Gurkha-based trousers
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Two-pleat
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Deep rise
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Straight silhouette
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Cleric shirt
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Round collar
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Tab collar
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Vintage tie
apartir / Nagoya NAYABASHI
Tailored to your lifestyle.
