The Appeal and Tailoring Craft of a Black Suit
There is no denying that a black suit is incredibly cool.
In Japan, formal wear can sometimes feel a bit unapproachable and is rarely something people think about in their daily lives. However, by adding various essences rather than keeping it strictly formal, its appeal is remarkably enhanced.
In this post, I would like to introduce a black suit that we took our time to tailor carefully with a client.
The Reason for the Visit and Background of the Order
The client’s first visit was inspired by our Instagram. I was deeply grateful that he made a reservation to consult with us beforehand.
He requested a black suit for his upcoming graduation ceremony, but I wanted to make it more than just a standard black suit—I wanted to create a piece that truly reflected his unique personality.
What struck me was that the client arrived wearing DAIRIKU bottoms. I happen to be a fan of the brand myself, so I couldn't help but react with a "nice choice." Furthermore, he expertly incorporated high-end fashion into his shoes and top, leaving a strong impression of his sophisticated sense of style.
Design Direction and Fabric Selection
The client referenced a double-breasted jacket and slim pant style from a certain brand. When he asked if this design could be reproduced, I proposed that instead of a simple imitation, we should adapt the silhouette to best suit him.
The goal was a suit that embraced the free-spirited styling reminiscent of jazz.
We looked at several fabrics, selecting recommendations while considering factors like luster, thickness, and ease of care within the black color range. Since the client already had a clear image in mind, he chose two options from which we prepared a quote.
A few days later, he reached out with a definitive "let’s proceed," which really sharpened my focus.
Detailing and Silhouette
For the fabric, we adopted CANONICO’s PERENNIAL. It has a moderate weight suitable for year-round wear and is a recommended choice that truly showcases the quality of the tailoring.
Furthermore, to match the client’s physique, we applied adjustments for high shoulders, forward-pitched shoulders, and a higher seat, prioritizing the balance between comfort and silhouette.
For the collar, we set the gorge line lower and adopted larger peak lapels. This resulted in a jacket that feels both classic and bold.
For the bottoms, I proposed a subtle, flared silhouette. We adjusted the length to drape just slightly over the shoes, achieving an elegant finish not found in mass-produced formal wear. I kept an image of French sophistication—like Serge Gainsbourg or Saint Laurent—in mind, focusing on every detail.
We fine-tuned the degree of the flare, pinning it in 5mm increments. Since the client is also well-versed in select brands, I proposed a more refined silhouette by referencing recent collections.
The Fitting
Finally, the day arrived for the fitting of the completed suit.
The moment he slipped the jacket on in front of the mirror, his expression brightened instantly. Seeing that look, I felt deeply moved myself.
Adding a personal touch to formal wear and wearing it with confidence—this is the appeal of the black suit, and it is something I hope to continue sharing with many more people.
The model for this suit was named "Davis."
A fitting name with a jazz influence.
